Dream trip Day 76 Rugby, Kafka’s head, drinking with the locals

Began the day with a nice walk down Národní Street and taking a right at the Lego Muzeum for coffee.

I received the largest cup of coffee I’ve ever had, probably more like 2 cups sized vessel. I’m already nervous about spilling hot coffee on myself as it is, what with the small handle and all.

All the coffee I spilled went into my saucer and not on me so I was all good.

It sprinkled rain as soon as I left so I ducked into the restaurant portion of the brewpub I was in the night before.

Always stick to your gut if you feel lost and just turn around. I stumbled into the basement and encountered a table of Czech men who immediately stopped eating once they saw me.

They just stared saying nothing. I was surely lost and definitely in the wrong place.

“Pivo, beer?” I asked.

Men continue to stare for about 10 seconds.

“You are in a private place. This is a private group. Not allowed.” One finally said after even more staring.

I held up my hands and backed away as they continued to stare at me.

I knew going down those stairs felt like a bad idea!

I was soon in the main restaurant where I walked to the bartender. He was much friendlier.

“Please sit down, it is better for you.” he said, motioning to a waiter. He extended his hand to a table nearby. “Sit please.”

Ok so no standing at the bar here. I always feel weird eating at a restaurant with waiters by myself.

Scanning the menu, I decided cold and rainy weather called for soup, specifically beef noodle soup and a beer.

Within 5 minutes I had a beer then a large bowl with small reservoir in it appeared. It was like a sombrero sized hat bowl!

The waiter had a ramekin of noodles he dumped into the bowl, then with a small kettle poured steaming broth over the noodles.

It was quite peppery soup and the noodles were delicate, handmade. I felt more and more refreshed with each bite.

At most tables were racks of big pretzels that people snacked on while sipping beer. I hope they realize this isn’t like chips and salsa at a Mexican joint. They will charge you for these snacks, but there isn’t a sign advising their cost $.

Some places would add all manner of hidden charges to your bill so you had to be vigilant reviewing your bill before paying.

I’d seen a couple of arguments from groups with their waiter and the manager over these hidden fees. It’s what places do to tourists, they know you’re not coming back so they try to squeeze as much money as they could while you were there.

It was really the only surprising practice I saw in a lot of countries. It really bummed me out, but hey, sometimes these fees were due to rude behavior or demands by the table.

I had no fees on my tab so I gave my waiter a few korunas tip.

To my great pleasure, the sun was out drying the streets.

Taking a new route, I came across the other Kafka statue in town, the Head of Kafka. It was a wonderful installation of his head in sections that took about a minute to separate and then reassembled.

It reminded me of that liquid, terminator robot and was quite pleasant to watch.

I had a tip from a friend about a great Mexican food place a short walk away. Hey weird I know, but I missed spice, sabor. Very few things I ate had any spice aside from black pepper and I missed heat.

I crossed the city square, passed an Irish Pub I had thought about checking out. It was full and loud on the patio. My sign to avoid.

Finally I located the spot. I was the only one in the joint so I joked with the waitress a bit as she instinctively lead me to the outside patio.

“This is where you want to sit, it is nice day. You’re fine, its slow for lunch, order whatever.” the waitress advised me with a smile.

Chorizo, eggs with tortillas arrived soon after and yes there was spice, finally.

I asked for green sauce, too, as the dish came with red salsa. I was happy dipping tortillas into the sauces and feeling some heat.

After my satisfying meal I walked back through the Jewish Quarter to further investigate some of the sections we didn’t hit on the walking tour.

Clouds blew in once I arrived to the cemetery hill, which was only accessible for a fee.

Most of the placed I wanted to see in this part of town had a fee to enter so I just walked up and down the streets admiring the free views of houses and synagogues from the outside.

I was a bit salty about fees after hearing about the Prague Library, Clementinum, one of the most beautiful places in the world, was only accessible via high tour fee, no photos inside and extra if you wanted to climb to the top.

Enough negative reviews on multiple travel sites convinced me it wasn’t going to really be worth the money and I felt if you paid anything then you supported the velvet rope exclusivity and gave it credence as a practice.

Thunder made me pause a moment under a bench to research a pub to wait out any oncoming rain.

Ah ha, one was only a few blocks away so I fast walked in that direction, arriving just as raindrops fell on my head. Those raindrops are falling on my head, they keep falling.

This was a very cool Irish pub. Instead of futbol on the telly as I was used to, today a  rugby match was on. So violent and without pads!

I chatted with the friendly barman who was indeed Irish. We were joined by a very pretty girl with mohawk dreads that reached her waist.

They swayed back and forth like a pendulum as she walked around the pub serving pints or ducking outside under the awning for a smoke.

We talked about the city and why he lived there vs Ireland. His wife liked the city, he thought it was just ok. They planned on retiring back home once they saved enough.

The only other people inside were a couple chaps playing darts and watching the rugby match after their 3 throws.

It rained outside while large plates of roast beef and potatoes arrived for the workers to eat. I stopped asking questions so they could eat and watched the rugby carnage unfold.

There were many autographed photos of famous visitors all over the wall near the bar.

What made these pics more interesting was they all seemed to be taken around closing time so lots of big smiles or narrow eyes haha.

After the rain I walked back to my side of town taking in the fresh ozone smells that follow a good downpour.

I was in search of a locals watering hole that was completely Czech. The guy that told me about it said they don’t try to speak English so be prepared to say pivo (beer) and další (another).

A wooden door was the only indication I’d arrived to my destination. What I found unique about Czech pubs was usually only 1 beer on tap. Definitely made it easier on me and less wait times since you didn’t have to stand behind a dude asking for local recommendation or what types of hop were used.

An older bartender didn’t respond when I asked for a pivo, he methodically and gracefully placed my glass under the tap until it overflowed, then he plopped it down in front of me, beer spilling all over.

Hey it was absolutely the most full glass of beer I’ve ever had.

After taking my money he used a squeegee to push the spilled beer into a sink.

I stood off to the side with a good view of both the entrance and the tables, all of which where full.

Overseas it was very common if 2 people are seated at a 4 top table for 2 others to join them. Rarely was there an empty seat or strangers in a pub.

Most people talked to each other including people they may not know. No one had their phones out like I saw in the UK and US.

I overheard an Australian couple talking about their trip. They mentioned a tower on the west side of town that was inside a lush garden.

I knew what I was going to do tomorrow thanks to them and tried to join them for a pint when another couple sat down.

They were the only people speaking English in this pub and I had missed my chance.

May as well get another glass.

The bartender saw me walk up and held up 1 finger and I nodded, “Další, prosim.”  

He had been doing the same thing for so long he had his process down cold: pour beer into glasses, then set onto bar for waitress. Pick up used glasses, dunk them into sanitizer, then water, and place onto drying area. Repeat. He was a graceful machine.

I alternated watching him and the couples at the tables smoking away.

After my 2nd beer it was onto a noodle joint for some dinner. Duck breast with noodles and peanuts in a spicy red sauce.

There was small store near my hostel with a large beer selection and I decided to try to meet some people in my hostel vs sitting in another pub. I’d done that all day thanks to the rain.

I selected a couple local beers I’d not seen before and took the stairs up to my hostel.

There was a couple trying to book a flight and were immersed in their computer.

A few guys had a small  bottle of some liquor which they passed around, finished, then headed out into the night in the span of 5 minutes.

Perhaps this Asian girl…no headphones on, chatting on her phone.

I stared outside taking a slug off my beer.

Song: Dvorak  Slavonic Dance, Op 72, No 2 in E minor

Beer: Staropramen



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